Pearl is formed in shellfish as a reactant to an irritant such as a
piece of sand. This then creates a pearl as layers of the inside of the
shell grow over the added substance. Pearl colour varies depending on
the type of shellfish and water.
Cultured pearls are pearls that grow around a nucleus that has
been manually placed within an oyster or mussel. The practice of
inducing pearl growth is an ancient one, dating back to the 13th century
Chinese, but was only perfected in the early part of this century by the
Japanese. Prior to the advent of modern culturing techniques, a round
nucleus, usually composed of clam or oyster shell, was placed between
the the mantle and shell of the bivalve and allowed to grow for 2 or 3
years. The nacre which coated the pearl also coated the shell lining,
resulting in a pearl that was attached to the shell (a blister pearl).
In modern cultured pearls the nucleus, which is a bead composed of
freshwater clam shell wrapped with a strip of the mollusks mantle, is
placed within the mantle or gonad of the bivalve, away from the shell,
allowing it to grow freely. Blister pearls, which are hemispherical in
shape, are used today in ear rings, rings, and brooches, where only a
half-pearl is necessary. A variant of cultured blister pearl is the Mabe
Pearl, an assembled cultured pearl made by removing the nucleus of
the blister pearl, painting the inside of the nacre coating with dye or
pearl essence (see below), filling the opening with epoxy or other
resin, and covering the base with a piece of mother-of-pearl.
The size of cultured pearls
depend on the size of the nucleus used, the species of mollusc, the
temperature and chemistry of the water, and the time allowed for growth.
Several pearls may be grown in a single oyster, but because the amount
of nacre secreted by an oyster is constant, the size attained by
multiple pearls in an oyster is smaller than for a single nucleus over
the same time. Japanese culturing techniques vary, but in general nuclei
remain in the oysters from 2 to 7 years before being extracted. For
"nucleated pearls", those containing a shell bead as a
nucleus, only about 1 in 4 oysters produce a cultured pearl. For non-nucleated
pearls, a strip of mantle is inserted into the mantle of a
freshwater mussel. About 80-90% yield pearls using this technique.
Cultured, non-nucleated, freshwater pearls
(generally referred to as simply freshwater pearls, despite the
fact they are cultured) are small and irregularly shaped, resembling
rice krispies in form. These are typically harvested after 12-18 months
of growth; those from the Lake Biwa region of Japan are referred to as
"Biwa" pearls.
The price of pearls vary widely as a result of lustre, size,
how they were grown, colour and type. Natural pearls are the most
expensive, followed by cultured pearls. Fresh water pearls tend to be
relatively inexpensive.
The shape of a pearl depends on two factors: 1) the shape of the
irritant nucleus around which the nacre is deposited; 2) whether or not
the pearl has moved during its growth. An irregularly shaped nucleus or
shifting of the pearl during growth can both lead to an irregular, or baroque
shape. Most natural pearls are not perfectly round for these reasons.
Some say rubbing a pearl against their teeth can determine whether a
pearl is real or fake since fake ones will feel too smooth. Fake pearls
will usually be either too heavy (inside is filled with glass) or too
light (inside is plastic). The most reliable method of testing if a
pearl is natural or cultured is a combination of the X-radiography and
X-ray fluorescence testing procedures.
Pearls are less durable than most gems. They are sensitive to acids,
dryness, and humidity. If you wear cosmetics and/or perfume, put these
on before wearing your pearl jewellery. When taking off your pearls,
wipe them with a dry, lint-free cloth. If needed, clean your pearls with
warm soapy water being very careful to not get water into the drill hole
as the pearl may discolour. Dry your pearls flat on an absorbent soft
(preferably lint-free) towel.
Always store your pearl necklaces flat as the silk will stretch.
Store pearls separately from other jewellery as they will scratch. Store
pearls in a dry environment. Avoid using plastic bags (as moisture may
get trapped and cause damage).